View Full Version : My new tank to be...
venkiw
12-02-2003, 05:14 AM
I am moving to a bigger tank after running my 37 gallon for 4 months. I'll be updating my tank pictures as I move along. But for starters here is my empty tank positioned in the right place. i have provided 8" clearance from the wall to have easy access to the back of the tank for cleaning etc. There is a heat outlet behind the tank (just in case I get crazy and want to have a sump in the basement)
http://aquariacanada.com/PhotoPost/showphoto.php?photo=397
Well my skimmer arrived yesterday, looks too small but will keep you posted on the performance, I may prefer to run 3 skimmers of smaller size than to buy one big unit. This will go in my sump (my current tank).
I am going to be using 2 of my E-Ballast and 250 watts 14000K bulbs to start with, hopefully this week I'll get my canopy (with reflectors mounted inside, Harley is building it for me, will get some pics soon, hope he stops drinking beer while working on my canopy).
I have about 40 lbs of liverock in my current tank which I plan to keep in the sump along with the 4" DSB. I'll have 4 NO 20 watts fluroescents and one 65 watts CF for my sump. It is more like a second tank connected in series but out of sight.
I will be adding say 50 - 70 lbs of liverock for this main tank with 2" CC Substrate. I am thinking KANAI liverock, is this rock good ?( I decided to go for a denser rock so that I can have my rocks in the center of the tank and give 4" clearance on all sides.
I am getting 2 MAG 9.5s for my overflow and return. May be an over kill. With SQUID for the return line.
I hope I'll be all set in a few weeks...( My gift to my wife ( saw this on the list of top 10 ways to keep the wiffy happy about the hobby).
Venki
barry_c
12-02-2003, 11:50 AM
sounds good. the only thing i'd question is putting the tank infront of the window. will the natural sunlight be a problem with algea growth?
or will the cops be stoping by to see if you are growing something instead of fishkeeping?
venkiw
12-02-2003, 12:08 PM
I am going to be covering the back of the tank with a backdrop, the sides will not receive any direct sunlight. And my shades are up only afterhours. So algae shouldn't be a problem I hope.
The cops aspect was funny, didn't cross my mind. They are welcome if they have a search warrant.
john rock
12-02-2003, 12:51 PM
looks like a very nice tank! why 2x MAG 9.5? save your coin and get 1x MAG 12 and just T it off to 2 returns. Thats all I did
for my 90g and thats what most do. Saves cash and hydro.If you want to drop by and take another look at my tank to see how I plumbed it your more than welcome.
venkiw
12-02-2003, 01:01 PM
Hi Johnny,
The second pump is for the the drain. My tank is not drilled, I know it is kind of crazy, but trying to do anything to save my carpets from getting wet again.
Venki
tang_man_montreal
12-02-2003, 01:23 PM
Venki,
What do you mean that the second pump is for the drain? I hope you don't plan to pump water down to a sump since you tank is not drilled...
This is a definate flood situation. Pumping downwards to a sump is more flow than pumping upwards to a tank. Even when using same model pumps. You have to take head loss and gravity into consideration. Let alone what would happen in the event of a power loss...
venkiw
12-02-2003, 01:38 PM
tang_man,
I have an overflow chamber and the pump will be draining from this chamber, in the event of a power loss water in the overflow chamber will be drained shouldn't cause a flood.
I will be adding resistance to the flow of water on the pump that is aided by gravity to balance the flow on both pumps.
I was more concerned about the water from the sump 37 gal flooding my main tank (72 gal) in the event of the break in siphon due to power outage, when the power comes back on.
Venki
john rock
12-02-2003, 01:48 PM
DO NOT DO THIS! I can't stress this anymore my friend. That is absolutly not the way to plumb a tank. You will have a flood for sure and/or a pump burnt out because it ran dry and this may cause a fire! were did you get that idea? You say you have an overflow box. is it hang on? theres other/betterways] to do this! Do not run 2 pumps aginst each other. You may add resistand to the pump[pumps hate this] but that resistance will change fast to to micro algea growth inside your pipes,pumps and a bunch of other things. DRILL YOUR TANK! It's empty now and won't cost more than $20 to drill. I can send you to the glass place that does mine. Do it right or you will regret it very fast! I had harley build me a overflow box for like a mear $40 and drilled my tank for $20. TOTAL $60 for a reefready. What if the power goes out and then back on when your not home and a pump decides not to start[it happens all the time] with one pump running you'll have a disaster.
venkiw
12-02-2003, 02:03 PM
Johnny,
Do you know if the Oceanic Bowfront Sides are made of tempered as well?, I assumed this because the glass is only 5mm in thickness.
If it is not tempered, I would definitely get it drilled at the back. Harley is building me a overflow out of the left over material from my canopy.
john rock
12-02-2003, 03:08 PM
You should contact OCEANIC asap. I'm pretty sure it wouldn't be tempered on the side panels but 5mm is thin. there is another way if you use a hangon overflow but you need to buy the good ones. First contact Oceanic because if its not tempered then your laughing.
venkiw
12-02-2003, 03:26 PM
11-26-03
Christian,
Thank you for contacting Oceanic and for your interest in our products. At this time, the Nature's View and E-Series lines have tempered glass (55, 58, 75, 125), the bow front aquariums have tempered glass (46, 72, 90, 175), and the corner bow front aquariums have tempered glass (54 & 92). The Lizard Lounges also contain tempered glass, and some of our aquariums will be made with tempered glass in the future. If you have a specific aquarium in mind, please let me know. Also, please remember that drilling the aquarium voids the warranty. If I can be of further assistance, please let me know.
Lori Stawarz
Oceanic Systems, Inc.
I found this on another website, so looks like it is tempered glass on all sides. I have sent them an email anyways to double check.
Toooloud
12-02-2003, 04:02 PM
i have seen friends drill there Bowfronts.. But had to dirll the back panel as the sides front and bottom where tempered.
Zookeeper
12-02-2003, 04:47 PM
What are you using for the sand bed? If I remember correctly, you were experimenting with the sand from Rona (Bomix)?
I agree with Johnny. Drill.
Toooloud
12-02-2003, 04:53 PM
Bomix is great stuff! ..
i Run it.. Same as Southdown.. i find it a nicer White!
john rock
12-02-2003, 08:22 PM
Thats not so good news. You have basically 2 choices now.
Go with no sump and just power heads[lots of people do it] or, you can buy a good hangon overflow. There are a few ways to do this and I have no experience in these type. I know that there are very good ones that you can use a small MAXI JET to restart your syphon when are power outage occurs and cheap ones that won't restart=flood! You can search on types and setup or maybe someone can comment on this board. I do not trust hangons and would rather go sumpless. I would never buy a non drilled tank again.[bin there] good luck Venki.
Fishysan
12-02-2003, 08:49 PM
Bomix is evil, full of metal bits.. remember those rust colored spots you wondered what they were?
Also, skip the squids - who knows how reliable long term they will be. Work out a deal with Reef Van for two of his reef-rats or something.. best way to go.
agree with johnny about overflows.. ugh, scary.
good luck!
ReefVan
12-02-2003, 09:21 PM
I have a CPR external overflow on my 66 Reef since the tank was not drilled when I set it up about 5 years ago... a couple of floods later I can tell you a couple of definitive facts.
Use a MaxiJet 1200 with black air hose connecting to the air nipple on the CPR. This will not allow algae to grow inside the tube, blocking it and causing.... a flood ...
Do not use any other powerhead except a MaxiJet 1200, they're just not powerfull enough and eventually the trapped air will cause ... a flood ...
Install a float or hi-level switch and relay to turn off the mainpump if the water level in the main gets too high, because even with all your best efforts there's always something that's gonna cause that damn external overflow to malfunction somehow ...
Basically now I've come home 3 times in the past couple of years to find the relay for the main pump has been tripped by the hi-level switch so as to prevent... a flood ...
Never again will I setup a un-drilled tank, what a headache it is. My 220 that is in the works has (2) 2" drilled overflows, no more floods and no more external overflows for me ... ;)
Toooloud
12-02-2003, 09:45 PM
""Bomix is evil, full of metal bits.. remember those rust colored spots you wondered what they were?""
Not at all!!! .. I dont know where you heard this from? But the Pure White Bomix play sand has nothing in it to cause harm.. and i know it has no metals for a fact becouse someone on another board tried to state this and i opened a brand new bag dumped it into a bucket and ran my HeavyDuty magnect through it and came up with nothing!
I have been using it for years!.. never an issue.
slykat
12-02-2003, 09:46 PM
I agree about the squid SCWD, had to get rid of it. it reduces the flow significantly 30-40% and also running a 9.5 mag. :grab:
tang_man_montreal
12-02-2003, 10:16 PM
I'm actually gonna step up to the plate and defend the SCWD.
First of all, there is no argument that the Reefrat is 10000x better than a SCWD could ever be.
That being said, I have had one running on my tank for about 9 months now with no problems. While I do agree that the SCWD significantly reduces flow (25-30%), it still does it's job well. The flow loss is no secret. It's written in black and white on their webpage. So if that is taken into account when planning to use one, you'll reap the benefits of oscillating current.
venkiw
12-03-2003, 06:11 AM
I had a SCWD and I never used so I thought I'll start with the SCWD for circulation ( I am sure the mag can handle extra head loss and still deliver around 300GPH).
I am going to leave the 4" DSB (Bomix Sand) in the sump. I have to agree with Fishysan that there may be minute amounts of Iron in this sand. The spots of rust disappeared after a few weeks. But they show up from time to time. I hope iron oxide is not bad for critters.
Tooloud - I'll be happy if I get a response back from oceanic confirming that the back is not tempered.
john rock
12-03-2003, 06:26 AM
SQUID: never used one but I did read a fair amount of threads on RC of crapping out and flow loss.[the flow loss does bother me as you pay good cash for a pump just to let it be 7o% efficient]
BOMIX: used it and still have it mixed up. Metals,Don't know? it is a calcite sand which at one time was acient seabed and I have 0 problems.
OCEANIC: sure hope Venki that it is non tempered in the back but I dought it. If there going that thin then it probely is. PRESTO tanks do the same thing.Why I do not know because getting glass tempered does cost so I do not know how there saving money? They must get a deal from whomever has the furnace.
venkiw
12-03-2003, 08:48 AM
Reply from Oceanic Systems Inc.:
Thank you for contacting Oceanic and for your interest in our products. The 72 gallon bow front aquarium has tempered bottom and tempered front. The sides and back are not tempered. If I can be of further assistance, please let me know.
Lori Stawarz
Oceanic Systems, Inc
So... after all I can get it drilled.:biggrinbo
Johnny thanks for being persistant with me patience in not one of my virtues.
Venki
john rock
12-03-2003, 09:25 AM
That is good news for you!!! 2 places I've dealt with for drilling are M&T GLASS and CENTENNIAL GLASS. M&T was the cheapest at $25 last year. Buy your bulkhead first and bring it with you so they can drill the hole the right size. All bulkheads do not have the same out diameter. Use minimum 1'' drain 1 1/2'' would be better. Buy the strainer with that and clean it regularly. plUmb with flex PVC.
ReefVan
12-03-2003, 10:54 AM
t_m,
I didn't read of anyone saying that a Rat or a SS was 10000x better than a SCWD ....
Only that in general that SCWDs were unreliable, prone to break-downs and in some cases classified as a POS .... :p:
RV... they are an alternative... essentially you get what you pay for... I plan to test these SCWD's out as soon as the fishroom is complete. No worries the Rat will also be in the testing phase!!!(can't wait)
I'm not sure you can compare a SCWD to a ReefRat or a SeaSwirl... it would be like comparing a Tunze 6100 stream with a maxijet 1200.
IJO
ReefVan
12-03-2003, 04:50 PM
Agreed and as such, you get what you pay for ..... and agree as well with your comparison .... ;)
As far as testing the Rat ... good luck if you think you can get them back from Harley .... :p:
venkiw
02-13-2004, 10:48 AM
Finally completed the setup and the tank has finished cycling. Added a Flame HawkFisha and 50 hermite crabs along with other cleaners.
Hope the hawkfish wont harm my feather duster and crabs, time can only tell.
I like their personality a lot and the way they perch on the rocks.
Venki
john rock
02-13-2004, 10:50 AM
let me know when your ready to add the corals. There looking good.
venkiw
02-13-2004, 01:03 PM
Johnny,
I was hoping you could may be drop them off at my place when you attend the MASO meeting on 29th, I am not far from where pt109 is, I haven't attached any frags before may be I could use your assistance.
Let me know if this ok.
Venki Worathur
john rock
02-13-2004, 01:18 PM
do you think your tank is ready just yet? a good 8 weeks at least is recommended. Also, I would prefer to do it seperatly as for one you need to acclimate them to your tank conditions[at least a few hours is recommended by adding some of your tank water and taking some out,so on] and if I bring them they will also be at the meeting for a few hours as well and all those temp, swing aint good! I want your corals to be in the best shape when they go into your tank as you paid good money and well, I'm attached to my corals[I know, I have to get a life!]. Why don't you wait a few more weeks for you to be sure your tank parms are fine,you can then come over and pickup your corals and I'll give you some pointers. You will need both crazy glue[zap gel or loctite gel] and epoxy stick. Both available at either IJO's or some is available at HOME DEPOT. This will help there survival rate and I'm working weekends and don't know yet what my schedule is for that sunday?
venkiw
02-13-2004, 03:01 PM
I think the tank parameters are ok, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate were at 0 on Wedensday. The ph 8.3 and the temp is stable at 79. I am yet to check the calcium.
Will wait a few more weeks just to be safe.
Venki
john rock
02-13-2004, 03:27 PM
good idea, the most important part I find is the actual algea/cyno phase that you will go thru. Corals can/will get coated and sometimes suffocate from this. Keep me posted and of course you can pick them up anytime you'd like but we'll try to give them the best possible chance.
venkiw
03-16-2004, 12:13 PM
Here is where my tank stands:
Completed cycling
Will be adding reef custodians (turbo and nassarius snails and blue legged hermit crabs)
Current Inhabitants: 2 false perculas, 1 Flame Hawk, 1 Yellow Tang, and a Powder Bule Tang.
Inverts: 1 Hawain Feather Duster 2 cleaner shrimps and 3 peppermint shrimps
Lighting: 1 250 watts 20K, will be connecting the other one soon. 10 hours of lighting everyday.
Sump Return Pump: Mag 9.5
Skimmer: PM CV626 driven by Genx 4100 Submersible pump.
PowerHeads: RIO 1100
Temp: 79 - 81 deg F
Salinity: 1.026
Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate: 0
Calcium: 410
Heaters: 1 - 250 watts and 1 300 watts.
Food: DT Phytoplankton, Cyclop Eeze, Mysis and Brine Shrimp (occasional flake food). Feeding on the heavy side 1 frozen cube a day).
1) I have been noticing some green algae on my glass, it almost, it ii like a green dust on the glass. When i scrape it off the glass, My skimmer produces a solutionn that looks like DT's phytoplankton. It is not slimy or hairy in anyway. What algae is this?, or is it phytoplanktons?
2) Morning there are no bubble on the rock but as the day progresses, the air bubble on the rock accumulates to point that at the end of the day the whole rock is covered with these. I know this could be oxygen released by the algae, but is it going to affect my corals as well like micro bubbles?
3) MAG 9.5 the humming is quiet intense but the GENX 4100 runs so quiet the only way I can tell its working is by lokking at the skimmer. Is this common for a MAG pump.
4) The dry foam produced fromt the skimmer stays as foam and tends to fillup everything, first my collection cup then my collection bottle. Should I do something to destabilise this foam back into liquid, as I am concerned that it will overflow with time. I get a gallon of dry foam everyday, and stays as foam.
5) Contrary to Flame Hawk Behaviour, my peppermints grab food out of the mouth of the flame hawk.
6) I haven't done any water change so far, but I have been topping 2.5 gallons of water every day. There is always nitrogen bubbles from the 2" sand bed, so the sand bed must be working even with 2"?
Is this setup going ok? is there something I need to watch for? Sorry about the long post.
Thanks
Venki
clown_fish
03-16-2004, 12:24 PM
I would be concern about the Rio pumps as they're known to fail and nuke the whole tank. I'd go with Maxi 1200 if i were you ( for peace of mind ).
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